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by Dan A. Nelson Seattle Times Reporter Many places have been dubbed "outdoors Meccas" but the long valley cradling Idaho's Big Wood River and Trail Creek - better known as Sun Valley - is truly deserving of that appellation. Whether you base your adventures out of a campground or a hotel, you'll be within walking/pedaling distance of hiking trails, mountain biking routes, paved bike paths, and world-renowned trout fishing. If that's not enough adventure, you can also head out for a little off-road in-line skating, parasailing or rock climbing. You might even combine them. Hit the river at the crack of dawn to catch a few rainbows during the endless mayfly hatch. When the fishing slows toward mid-morning, hop on your bike and pedal down the riverside path to a lunch spot and a nap beside the river. Later you can hike up to the high ridge for a spectacular view of sunset over the mountains. The Valley
Sun Valley is the small resort community just a mile up the road from Ketchum, Idaho, but it also refers to the whole upper end of the Big Wood River Valley. From Bellevue to the headwaters of the river, the valley changes from dry sagebrush country to high alpine forest. Ketchum is nestled near the transition line between the two worlds, existing in both the high desert and the mountain environment. In the 1930s, the area drew the attention of a railroad baron who was looking for an Alps-like experience in the United States. His minions found this gem in central Idaho and the first ski runs were put in later that year. Best known for its ritzy ski communities - where the rich and famous come to be seen in their frilly designer Gore-Tex - Sun Valley offers a richer array of outdoor adventure after the snow melts.
Camping
A slew of National Forest Campgrounds line the Sawtooth Scenic Byway that rolls through the mountains between Stanley and Ketchum. The North Fork Campground, just north of Ketchum inside the Sawtooth National Recreation Area, offers an array of facilities and amenities. Campers can walk from their tent to the North Fork of the Wood River and catch a few trout for dinner, or hike over to a nearby trailhead and enjoy a walk in the woods. If the North Fork Camp fills up, hop up the North Fork Road to Murdock Campground or continue up the Scenic Byway to Big Wood Camp or Easley Campground near the Easley hot springs (the springs are part of a private resort, but the soaking pools are open to day users - for a price).
Fishing
In 1939, Ernest Hemingway came to the valley and found a fly fishers' dreamland. Rushing rivers, clear spring creeks, and deep ponds and lakes cover the landscape, offering a variety of fishing much of the year. Hemingway, an avid angler, stayed and fished the Big Wood River and Trail Creek while writing "For Whom the Bell Tolls." The fishing might be a bit slower and the rivers more crowded today, but there are still lunker trout lurking the deep cold pools of the rivers. The Big Wood supports a population of rainbow trout which average 12 to 14 inches long, according to the Idaho Department of Fish and Game. Local anglers report that 16-inch 'bows are common, and the occasional 20-incher can be found, mostly upriver from Ketchum. In addition to the healthy rainbow population, a few browns and brooks hold in the deep pools downstream from Hailey. Much of the property fronting the 12 miles of river between Hailey and Ketchum is private, but there is good public access in Ketchum, and even better access north of town. In fact the farther you go upstream from Ketchum, the better the access but - remarkably - the fewer the anglers sharing the stream. Anglers of all abilities can enjoy the mid-sized Big Wood River. Though it runs deep enough to support big fish, it is easily waded and fished. The foliage along the banks is thin and open, and the twisting, turning channel creates hundreds of pockets of holding water. The river opens during Memorial Day Weekend but snowmelt keeps the water high and murky until late June. By the Fourth of July, the 'bows will be biting for sure. Other angling options in the valley include Silver Creek, a classic spring creek that runs clear and cold year round. For fish 20 to 24 inches, toss your float tube into Magic Reservoir. Later in the summer, head for one of the countless little alpine lakes in the Sawtooth Wilderness Area just north of Ketchum. Hiking
More than 40 miles of hiking trails can be found within 5 miles of downtown Ketchum. One of the best close-in trails is the Adams Gulch Loop System. The trailhead is 2 miles north of Ketchum. Hikers of all abilities will enjoy this network, with trails that offer loop options of 3, 6 or 14 miles. The trails roll through narrow canyons and shady groves of pine below the high summit of Griffin Butte. Farther from town, the trails lead into wilder, more scenic settings. About 20 miles north of Ketchum you'll find a collection of trails leading to high alpine lakes. These are the Lakes Trails of the Ketchum Ranger District. Five separate hikes, ranging from 4 to 10 miles (round trip) lead to five pretty alpine lakes, each rich with trout. The Baker Lake Trail climbs steeply for 2 miles to the lake. Anglers will find the fishing fast and furious, but don't plan on feasting on fish - this is catch-and-release water. Because the trail is short and the lake so beautiful, crowds gather here on summer weekends. But, as so often happens, the majority of hikers stop at the first scenic wonder - the lake - and solitude-seeking folks can push on to explore the rest of the route in peace and quiet.
Biking/in-line skating
The communities in Sun Valley, from blue-collar Bellevue to the pretentious Sun Valley proper, had the foresight to grab the railroad right of way when it was abandoned. Today, the railbed carries the 30-mile network of the Wood River Trail from Bellevue to Sun Valley Lodge and beyond. The main trail parallels the Big Wood River for 20 miles, offering great views of the pretty river as well as good fishing access to the public waters. The trail starts in downtown Bellevue and heads upstream through Ketchum. The trail continues past Ketchum for another few miles to end in a small park at the bottom of Adams Gulch. |